Abbey-Roads2

What to wear with what.

With the eventual acceptance of the Extraordinary Roman Rite amongst clergy, many lay people do not know what is required as regards appropriate vestments for the priest celebrating the TLM.  Especially those of us who are used to the low-Church “Lutheran” style (shown at left) many priests have favored in the celebration of the Ordinary Roman Rite:  the alb and stole.

What vestments are de rigueur at the celebration of Holy Mass?

Strictly speaking, with the exception of the “maniple“  - I believe priests celebrating either form of the Roman rite should ordinarily be wearing the following vestments: the amice, alb, cincture, stole, and chasuble.  So what are these things and what is their significance?

The amice: A piece of white linen which covers the priests shoulders.  The traditional vesting prayer explains its meaning:

“Place O Lord, on my head the helmet of salvation, that I may overcome the assaults of the devil.”  When vesting, the priest momentarily places the amice on his head, then over his shoulders.

The alb is a long, white linen tunic which covers the priest’s body.  As he puts it on the priest prays:

“Purify me O lLord, from all stain and cleanse my heart, that washed in the Blood of thee Lamb, I may enjoy eternal delights.”

The cincture is the cord that girds the alb at the waist.  The vesting prayer explains:

“Gird me O Lord, with the cincture of purity, and quench in my heart the fire of concupiscence, that the virtue of continence and chastity may remain in me.”

The maniple is a short narrow band of cloth which matches the outer vestments, and hangs from the left arm.  The prayer explains:

“Let me deserve O Lord, to bear the maniple of tears and sorrow, so that one day I may come with joy to the reward of my labors.”

The stole is the long band of coordinating fabric that is worn around the neck and crosses over the breast of the priest.  It is a symbol of the authority in the Church and of all vestments, the most blessed and significant.  (Which may explain why modern priests simply wear a stole over an alb for Mass.)  The vesting prayer describes its meaning:

“Restore to me O Lord, the state of immortality which was lost to me by my first parents, and although unworthy to approach Thy sacred mysteries, grant me nevertheless to attain eternal joy.”

The chasuble is the outer vestment worn by the celebrant at Mass.  It hangs from the shoulders, in front and behind, down to the knees or lower.  The vesting prayer explains:

“O Lord, Who hast said, ‘My yoke is sweet and my burden light,’ grant that I may carry it so as to obtain Thy grace.” 

The chasuble, stole, maniple, and chalice veilare made as a coordinating set of vestments, normally from precious fabric and always of the same design in the seasonally appropriate liturgical color.  (Note: The so-called “fiddleback” chasuble is not required, any classic Roman chasuble is appropriate for the celebration of either form of the Roman rite.)

The biretta is a three-ridged square hat worn by the priest when he enters and exits the sanctuary for Holy Mass.

I am not certain if the prayers for vesture have ceased to be obligatory in preparation for the Ordinary form of Mass, but I can almost guarantee not very many priests make a ritual out of vesting for Mass any longer.  Although I am fairly certain it is required for the celebration of the Extraordinary form.

[Just a note to priests who favor the stole over alb ensemble for Mass.  If you are disheartened by the casual attire of the congregation at Mass, it might be an indication you should be dressing more formally yourself - that is, vested accordingly.] 

Lead photo: Ecclesiastical fashion show: Fellini’s “Roma”. 

Trends 

Visiting blogs this evening I came across this photo of Paris Hilton, on her way to jail I suppose.  Salve Regina posted it, and I had to comment that Paris actually looks decent in the photo.  (Why does she have to dress so slutty otherwise?)  At  Tea At Trianon, Elena did a piece on the return of decency in the tastes of young girls, it was taken from the Washington Post.  I thought, “Wow!  Really?”

Fashions that offend God.

Bl. Jacinta of Fatima received many visits from Our Lady after the public apparitions at Fatima.  In one instance Our Lady explained to her:

“the sins which bring most souls to hell are the sins of the flesh.  Certain fashions are going to be introduced which will offend Our Lord very much… the Church has no fashions; Our Lord is always the same…”

In 1917 women wouldn’t even think of wearing pants, much less shorts and spaghetti strap tops.  I think Our Lady was rather “fashion forward” in what she said, knowing how women’s fashions (and men’s - remember Speedos from the ’80’s, and the low, pube revealng jeans today) would devolve to the hooker look it now is.

Modesty returning? 

Many people who red me know I once worked in fashion - many years ago now, so I know a little bit about it.  I got in trouble last year for criticizing a local start-up company, Up Stream Girl, dedicated to promoting modest affordable fashions for young girls and women.  I later changed my mind when I found out their sincerity, that they were new at the business, and were still working out the details.  Their fall presentation was so much better.  (I pretty much expected them to be Calvin Klein - I later apologized.)

It is good news however to read that young girls think run of the mill “summer fashions” are too indecent.  Although, I doubt one can consider normal summer-time apparel as fashion.  T-shirts and shorts, with flip-flops - not my idea of fashion.

Here are a couple of quotes from the article:

“Shorts are too short,” complained 13-year-old Jessica Marino.

“Micro shorts,” offered Nicole Madden, 14.

The steamy days of Washington summer may be upon us, but these girls, all from Burke, were definitely not getting skimpy. For a generation bombarded with news of pantyless celebrities, most of the girls we interviewed were surprisingly modest.

“I try to stay with styles that look good. I try to go for classic styles,” said Kate Bolton, 17. “My mom has really slammed that into my head.”  (Now she has a smart mom!)  - Washington Post

It is an interesting article, which includes a brief analysis on the sexualization of our culture, and kids reaction against it.

I hope so. 

In the 1960’s it would have been referred to as a ‘happening’.  Today it is art.

Pictured: A previous ”exhibition” of the artist’s work - naked people paving an avenue.

A record 18,000 people took off their clothes to pose for U.S. photographic artist Spencer Tunick on Sunday in Mexico City’s Zocalo square, the heart of the ancient Aztec empire. - Reuters 

Spencer Tunick does this stuff.

Pictured: Today’s “exhibition” in Mexico City.

“This event proves that really we’re not such a conservative society anymore. We’re freeing ourselves of taboos,” said Fabiola Herrera, a 30-year-old university professor who volunteered to strip, along with her boyfriend. - Reuters 

 Editing note:  I meant to post this at the ‘other’ Abbey, and mistakenly posted it here.

I just watched the film again.  I like the movie because Miranda Priestly reminds me so much of my former Senior Vice-President, Andrew Markopoulos, whom I worked for at Dayton-Hudson, which turned into Marshall Fields, and now finally turned into Macy’s - Oh! thank God Andy died before that happened!  (I posted about this film before, after I first viewed it, that post was a more thoughtful look at fashion from a Catholic perspective.)

However, I just want to post a bit of dialog from the film that perfectly sums up the influence and reason for haute couture…

After she laughs at a discussion over a belt, Miranda asks Andy what she is laughing about…you could imagine that Andy’s laugh might cause those present in the room to consider how superficial and frivolous the fashion world is: 

Andrea Sachs: “No, no, nothing. Y’know, it’s just that both those belts look exactly the same to me. Y’know, I’m still learning about all this stuff.” 

Miranda Priestly:  “This… ’stuff’? Oh… ok. I see, you think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select out, oh I don’t know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise, it’s not lapis, it’s actually cerulean. You’re also blindly unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar De La Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves St Laurent, wasn’t it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers. Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.” 

That is what the business is really all about.  What did they tell Bush Sr. years ago?  “It’s the economy, stupid.”

(I just liked the dialog and thought posting it would be a nice tribute to Andrew Markopoulos, whose birthday was around this time - he was just as tough and demanding as Miranda Priestly, and he taught me a lot.  May he rest in peace.) 

Pictured, a Conceptionist nun.

In the autumn of 2005 the Smithsonian held an exhibition of “retratos” or Latin American portraiture, included amongst the collection were portraits of Crowned Nuns.

Popular in Mexico during the Viceregal period in the 17th and 18th centuries, many nuns were depicted as the royal bride of Christ before making their profession in an enclosed monastery.  It was especially popular amongst the Jeronomites, Poor Clares, and Conceptionist nuns.

During colonial times in Mexico, a woman pretty much had two options, marriage or monastic life.  Reading the life of Teresa of Avila, though set in 16th century Spain, gives one some insight into convent life of her time, as well as that of the colonial period in New Spain.  Some convents were less observant and a caste system was indeed in place, hence, girls from poorer families would normally not be able to afford such portraiture, much less the dowries expected in those days.

In the beginning, the portraits were often paid for by the family of the new nun, and were perhaps less extravagant than the example shown here.   As time and prosperity advanced, along with it emerged the regal court-like nuances in monastic life, hence the portraiture became more grand and elaborate, if not ostentatious.

Pictured, a Jeronomite nun.

The crown of course represents the nun’s espousal to Christ as his bride.  Rich embroidery often ornamented her cloak, while she carried elaborate emblems of her religious title, often draped in relicarios, waxen flowers, ribbons and other elegant details.  It was the final act of vanity for a woman who was leaving the world and her status behind to live a consecrated life.  Although, as history reveals, status and prominence, as well as vain additions of trims to the habit were not uncommon as a woman established herself in the religious milieu.

In defense of Miss Mexico once again, the ‘fashion’ associated with crowned nuns also may have influenced young Mexican girls in their dress for special fiestas and events, such as 1st Communions, etc.

Pictured, contemporary Poor Clares.

The tradition of crowned nuns is not peculiar to Mexico, only the elaborate and regal style seems to be.  In monastic life, nuns often wear a crown of roses or another flower, symbol of their espousal to Christ and carry a candle, representative of Baptism, as seen in this photo from a Poor Clare’s profession.

Today, it seems women who enter the cloister are more apt to have a farewell Mass and perhaps a reception before entering the cloister, which can later be an embarrassment if they don’t persevere.  In the 18th century, when one entered the cloister, you really never left, like it or not - hence, one possible explanation for the resulting decadence in some houses.

Pictured: Miss Mexico contestant, Rosa Maria Ojeda, in her Miss Universe “ethnic” dress.

From what I understand, the Mexican Church is upset The contestant representing Mexico in the Miss Universe pageant is wearing a designer gown representing the religious history of Catholic Mexico.  She is draped in “relicarios” consisting of scapulars, rosaries and medals, with a skirt illustrating “ex-votos” of Mexican piety, including the Madonna of Guadalupe, as well as prints of the Mexican martyrs from the 1920’s persecution of the Catholic Church in Mexico.

“Mexican Catholics are outraged over a floor-length dress adorned with crosses and scapulars as well as images of the executions of 1920s Cristero martyrs that the country’s Miss Universe contestant had planned to wear.

The Toronto Star reports that Miss Mexico is toning down her Miss Universe pageant dress - not because it’s too slinky or low-cut, but because its bullet-studded belt and images of hangings from the Cristero uprising have outraged Mexicans.

The floor-length dress is accented with crosses, scapulars and a sketch of a man facing a firing squad. Designers who helped select the dress from among 30 entries argued it represented the nation’s culture and history, especially since Mexico City is hosting the pageant in May.” - CathNews

Without knowing the politics of the contestant, I will venture to guess this is not an anti-Catholic statement on the part of this woman or her designer.  Churchmen are saying it is irreverent and anti-Church, pandering to the anti-Catholic sentiments left over from the earlier persecutions, I find that hard to believe.  For one thing, earlier anti-Catholic forces would surely not appreciate anyone celebrating the martyrs they created in any expression of art, even if it happens to be an innocuous expression of ethnic dress, albeit, an expression of piety that has fallen by the wayside.

A little bit of history repeating…

“In the New World, travelers and soldiers going into battle wore these precious devotional jewels for protection. Missionaries proselytizing Natives used them as teaching instruments, and gave them as special presents to converts. Relicarios comforted men and women religious in the solace of their cloisters and indicate their hagiographic affiliations. Lay persons of fashion wore bejeweled relicarios as displays of their piety as well as in an evasion of the Crown’s Sumptuary Laws, which forbade the wearing of ostentatious jewelry.” -Relicarios 

Historically, it was customary for Hispanic women to adorn themselves with religious relicarios, rosaries, and medallions.  Even the ex-votos covering sacred images and statues reflect the custom.  In time, save for in the small hamlets of the provinces in the early 20th century, this custom was abandoned, nevertheless it had been a part of Hispanic culture and tradition, as well as fashion - like it or not.

Painting: by Vicente Alban, “Important Woman” wearing relicarios.  In this case the tableau the woman wears is rather modest, in other photographic examples, that I do not have net access to, women are draped in relicarios.

My understanding is the costume Miss Mexico had chosen to wear, was a choice which represented her heritage for that portion of the contest wherein traditional costumes, or those representative of one’s ethnicity and culture, are worn during the pageant.  I don’t think it was meant to be a slam against the Church, quite the contrary.

Nevertheless, the contestant toned down her dress due to the Catholic protest.  Seems to me the Mexican Catholics have more to worry about than what a beauty pageant contestant is wearing, although it obviously doesn’t bother them that she wears next to nothing in the swimsuit competition.

As I always say, especially to churchmen, choose your battles - not everything is an attack against the Church.  Don’t forget that American Catholics run around with t-shirts and sweatshirts sreenprinted with pious images.

[An excellent book on the subject of relicarios is "Relicarios" by Martha J. Egan.]

This is so not a good look…

In many offices Fridays are regarded as casual Fridays.  More often than not, it’s a day to come to work looking like crap.  I once worked in an office where the HR person came in wearing something similar to what is shown in this photo, only the jeans were faded and sort of ugly, and the heels were uglier than these.

Other people come in wearing sweat pants made out of teddy bear fur, or what is known as velour.  Not a good look, especially if you’re a chunk and you are wearing a tight top.  I used to say no matter how fat you are, if you have a tan, you look good.  I was wrong, a leatherette face is not attractive enough to distract from rolls.  (My apologies to overweight women.)

I’ve never understood guys who wear kahkis and cords to work every day, suddenly showing up for work wearing blue jeans because it’s casual Friday.  Kahkis and cords arecasual.  The same with women who wear flip flops and capri pants with T-tops all week, coming into work wearing something worse on casual Fridays.  (Worse would be running outfits.)

Since I worked at a Catholic Company where modesty was promoted, casual Fridays sometimes left little to the imagination.  Cleavage, tight clothes…butt- you may say, it’s casual Friday.  It doesn’t take much to turn a guy on - men are the weaker sex when it comes to T&A - please excuse the vulgar expression.

Some guys used to complain about the clothing of a couple of the girls, suggesting their style of dress became an occasion of sin for them.  That didn’t go over well with the predominant female management, especially since one of the accused happened to be a family member.  (Yet they would criticize a couple of women who always wore dresses or skirts, saying how dowdy they looked.  Office women can be a lot like those featured in “Ugly Betty”.  Meow.)

So, what’s my point?  Casual Fridays are pointless, society has become far too casual as it is.  Dress appropriately and cover up.  Maybe keep the flip flops for the yard or beach - the noise can be a turn-on for guys.  Oh, and don’t wear heels with pedal pushers - it looks dumb.  (Especially on the guys.)

Trivia:  Do you know one reason why women wear really high heels with pants?  They enhance the derriere.  It’s true.

[This has been  public service announcement for people without taste.]

So I’m minding my own business, blogging as usual, and suddenly I get a comment from my sister Beth.  (We are estranged only because I’m an old recluse.  She has gone through a sort of “purgation of the memory” as far as our childhood reminiscences go, while I have retreated from the family in an effort to “forget” these things.  Although I think about them, continually trying to make sense of it all.)

Beth has about 50 kids - not really - she only has 7; Benj, Chris, Dina, Mark, Rob, Kelly, and Todd (Todd looks like Kevin Costner).  Four of the kids are married with children, while three of the boys remain bachelors - without children - see, they are all good kids.  The entire family is a very good family.  The kids are each other’s best friends.  Though they get angry with me, they like me, “they really, really like me”. 

Beth can’t remember…

Beth wrote a comment, “I never thought of Nana as a classy lady, just a grandma.”  Oh! My! Gosh! Beth!  Nana used to dress like the picture up above - certainly she wasn’t Grace Kelly - her shape was a bit more voluptuous, more like Doris Upson in “Auntie Mame” - she would hit you with her handbag if she heard this coming from her favorite grand-daughter.

The photo above is Dior’s New Look, which inaugurated in the late 1940’s but was most popular in the States in the mid 1950’s.  The dress we see above would probably have a low cut back - which Mom said showed how fat Nana was.  (Now you know Mom could be bitchy…)  Nana wore a silver dress much like this one shown, with black gloves, when she got off the plane on a trip from San Francisco.  I thought she was like a movie star.  (Gosh!  I sound like “Ugly Betty’s” nephew - although I’m sure you don’t watch that.)

Okay my dear sister, one Nana memory for you on this post.

It was a stormy summer night in St. Paul, Nana was visiting with her new husband and we were all at Mom and Dad’s house.  Tornado warnings had been issued when Dad said, “Honey, we are out of ice, Nana needs more ice for her drink.”  Skip and Judy and Linda and I got in the car to go get ice.  On the radio we heard of a possible tornado touchdown near Lake Phalen, not all that far from us.  The rain was horizontal, lightning continually flashing - it was like a hurricane.  We pulled into a service station asking for ice.

The attendant was so frightened and screamed above the thunder, “Whata ya nuts?  We’re in a tornado here!  Take what ya want!”  We picked up the ice - for free - and returned home to the party, and Nana greeted us as we walked in, soaking wet from the storm, “Just in time kids!” -  shaking her empty glass.  Not one of them realized we had risked death to get her ice. 

Nana had to leave shortly after that so she could get up and go to Mass with uncle Art and aunt Mary Jane the next morning.  (They worried about the ‘open bar’ at the Nelson’s and picked her up after the tornado.)

Someone dropped off a GQ at work, and as I paged through it, I viewed the provocative ads by Dolce and Gabbana, similar to the above ad banned in Italy.  (One ad has a model on the floor with a male model’s shoe-clad foot above her face as if to step upon it.)

I’ve often been suspicious of some gay-men designers, who put women in stiletto heels, clothing so tight a woman can’t be comfortable, along with all the other ridiculous things women have to wear and do to be fashionable.  Many have thought some gay men actually hate women on some level, others see fashion as another means to exploit and subjugate women.

Considering the decadence of Dolce and Gabbana - maybe they really are mysoginists.

If you don’t like what you see, let the Company know:

CONTACT
DOLCE & GABBANA USA Inc.
660, Madison Avenue 10021
New York
Tel.+1-212-750-0055
http://eng.dolcegabbana.it